Southern Chow-Chow Relish
Place the chopped cabbage, red and green bell peppers, green tomatoes and onion in a Dutch oven with pats of butter, sugar, salt and pepper over medium high heat. Stir often so none of the vegetables stick to the pot. After the first 8 to 10 minutes, lower the heat to low and cook for 30 minutes and up to an hour.
Chow-chow is the thrifty genius of the Southern pantry: a relish made from the garden's odds and ends. Mine is cooked down in butter, and beyond the vegetables it is seasoned with nothing but sugar, salt and pepper. Spooned over pinto beans, piled onto a hot dog, or served alongside barbecue and greens, it brings a gentle tartness from the green tomatoes and a buttery sweetness that rounds out everything it touches. It is a taste of the South's make-do wisdom, and it is best warm from the pot.
The Vegetables & the Bind
Chow-chow is a celebration of the garden's bounty, so chop a colorful mix of vegetables into a fine, even dice — uniformity is what gives the relish its neat, even texture. Then comes the bind, and it is shorter than you expect: half a cup of butter in pats laid over the top, a teaspoon of sugar, salt and pepper. That is all — the butter melts down and pulls the whole pot together. Combining the vegetables with the seasoning and letting them mingle draws out their juices and sets the stage for the simmer that pulls it all together.
The Stovetop Reduction
The simmer is where a jumble of vegetables becomes a relish. Cook it all down on the stovetop, starting over medium-high so the butter melts and draws the juices out, then dropping to low after eight or ten minutes — you want the vegetables to give way completely, not stay crisp. Taste as it goes and adjust the salt; the finished relish should be soft, savory and rich. Then serve it warm, straight from the pot, on any plate that needs a lift.
Southern Chow-Chow Relish
Ingredients
Method
- Place chopped vegetables into a Dutch Oven or large stock pot, and mix in pats of butter, sugar, salt and pepper. Adjust the stove to medium high heat.
- The butter will melt over the vegetables, and help mingle and marry their flavors.
- Stir often, so that none of the veggies stick to the pot.
- After the first 8 to 10 minutes, lower stove temperature to low, and let cook for 30 minutes and up to an hour.
- Serve as a garnish for meats, on top of any sandwich, or enjoy as a stand-alone dish.
The Heart of the Table
There is a quiet, thrifty generosity in a homemade relish — a jar of the garden captured and put by, made to share and to give. To spoon out a chow-chow you cooked down yourself, brightening a plate of beans or greens or barbecue, is old-fashioned Southern hospitality in its most humble form, the kind of care that turns simple food into something with a story.
The Art of the Host
A good knife for the dice and a heavy-bottomed Dutch oven for the long simmer are the essentials, plus a covered container for what is left. Dice the vegetables uniformly so they cook at the same rate, stir often with a heavy wooden spoon so nothing catches, and give it thirty minutes to an hour on low until the vegetables give way completely. Refrigerate any leftovers in a covered container and finish them within a few days.
Neighborly Grace
- The Preparation: You can chop all the vegetables the day before and keep them refrigerated ready to go, which is most of the work. Cook it the day you want it, serve it warm, and refrigerate anything left over to finish within a few days.
- The Pour: As a condiment it flatters whatever it tops — a cold lager or a sweet tea suits the barbecue and beans it loves. For a non-alcoholic option, a tart lemonade echoes its bright, tangy character.
- The Vibe: This is the little pot that lifts everything — spoon the warm, buttery relish over beans, greens, hot dogs, or barbecue. It is humble, useful, end-of-the-garden flavor, made to share while it is warm.